Germany- Vendôme- Three Stars in 2019

BERGISCH-GLADBACH (NEAR COLOGNE), GERMANY, APRIL 2017

SERVICE: 9.5/10

FOOD: 8.5/10

PRICE PAID: $270PP (INCL. WATER, TAX, AND INCREDIBLE WINE)

VALUE/MONEY: 8.5/10

FINAL SCORE: 9.0/10

Built inside the gorgeous and massive Schloss Bensberg castle, Joachim Wissler’s Vendôme is an extremely special place within the already elite cadre of three-star restaurants. This is one of the very few that I would go back to as often as I possibly could, period.

The service, food, and unique location make this one of a handful of most-memorable experiences of my entire adventure. Felix in service was an especially outstanding host; he offered thoughtful and succinct summaries of each dish that contributed greatly to our enjoyment, and was just excellent at his job.

Wissler won his first Michelin star for the restaurant in 2001, his second in 2002, and his third in 2005. As of my visit, he had held those three stars for a dozen years.

They actually had a branded card to show guests

First out of the gate, we are brought a small series of four bites which I’ll describe in turn.

First, "Toffifees" made with foie gras, caramel, hazelnut, and a gelée of Riesling. Though it looks like it should be sweet, they are extremely savory and melt apart immediately with a lovely, rich taste. 9/10, great start.

The restaurant is even charming enough to keep a laminated copy of the referential candies’ packaging to look at on demand. Nice touch.

Next, a Croque Madame with diced ham, parsley pesto, foam of cheddar cheese, and a thin slice of black truffle. It’s like a decadent egg custard with the added dimension of ham and is absolutely something I could live on forever. 10/10.

Next, some “pizza dough” with salted Wagyu beef on top - the dough crunches open and is hollow, and unfortunately the Wagyu gets a bit lost of the mix, making this the least interesting of the four. The best that could be said is that it has strong pepperoni pizza flavors. 7/10.

Lastly, a "Borscht" macaron (normally a beetroot soup from Eastern Europe) made into a tiny sandwich. In the center is a tartare of beef, chives, and crème fraîche with lime. The chef totally nails the flavor and even the texture of beet. 9/10.

The next amuse bouche comes over with the charming title of “Snail Dim Sum.” To give them depth of flavor and richness, the snails are braised for 48 hours in brown butter. The ""caviar” on top is made from lime, basil and lemon zest, and is mixed together with a broth of sherry and bourbon. Rich, but not overly so, and a really creative take. The lime and basil gives an acid kick that really balances the dish nicely! 9/10.

2014 Millton Chenin Blanc, Gisborne, Te Arai Vineyard, New Zealand

This was accompanied by a glass of 2014 Millton Chenin Blanc from Te Arai vineyard in Gisborne, New Zealand, with really nice flavors of honey, clover, and almond that pair perfectly.

Slightly salted butter from Elsass, a bread variation from their house patisserie. It is joined by some really impressive olive bread that tastes like pure green olives. 9/10.

Course 1: Foie Gras + Miso + Oyster, 8/10

And now, we get into the main menu. First up, foie gras prepared by brining it for two full days in miso paste, removing and then pan-frying - a really interesting choice. The salt from the miso balances perfectly with the extremely fatty foie. This is accompanied by a super smooth oatmeal emulsion which tastes just like almonds. An “asparagus and oyster sandwich” on the right has extremely fresh oyster, and a chamomile infusion is added on top as the final piece of the puzzle. 8/10.

Next, an artfully plated dish of eel. The restaurant uses fresh eel (as opposed to smoked) which is fileted, poached, braised, and lastly glazed with soy sauce and mirin. Eels are a fatty fish, so this excruciating step-by-step preparation makes it less creamy and more flavorful. Underneath, a local German vegetable similar to chard with a vaguely spicy flavor next to some thin slices of pear. The pear has been aromatized with horseradish, heightening the spicy character of the dish. Overall, a complicated but well-balanced combination of components that delivers an outstanding dish. 10/10.

Next, some crispy red mullet poached and glazed in chicken stock with a side of rich “risotto” made from the emulsified liver of monkfish and parmesan. The mullet is fresh but just a touch undercooked. The risotto is creamy and easily the best part of the dish. 8/10.

Onto the main course, which is simply duck made with radish, butter, and cinnamon. The dish is rich, spicy, sweet, but heart-attack salty. This is accompanied by a consommé made of duck with an egg yolk, and dumplings made of duck with plum and cinnamon (below).

On the right of the main dish the heart of the duck in a peanut butter soup. 8/10.

Moving on to dessert, we are next served an entire plateful of rhubarb and bergamot served a variety of different ways - cubes which have been charred, some seared, some made into jelly, some cut into loops, with bergamot in between. On the left, nut butter ice cream, a yogurt granita on the right side, and gin sauce added tableside. Amazing. 9/10.

Finally, the second dessert arrives, which includes four components:

“Chocolate Air” (above on the left) - aromatized with mint and melts instantly. 9/10
Two chocolate marshmellows (above to the right) 8/10; filled with key lime cream. 8/10.
“Mini-Magnums” of ice cream, (bottom left). 8/10.
Last but not least, a coffee ganache that looks exactly like the opening dish! 10/10 for creativity.