Germany- Überfahrt- ✪✪✪

Überfahrt Exterior

Überfahrt Exterior

ROTTACH-EGERN, GERMANY (ALPS NEAR THE AUSTRIAN BORDER)

SERVICE: 8.5/10

FOOD: 7.0/10

PRICE PAID: $282 PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 7.5/10

FINAL SCORE: 7.5/10

Christian Jürgens

Christian Jürgens

Sitting right next to the near-Caribbean-colored waters of the Tegernsee (a large mountain lake in the German alpine foothills), Christian Jürgens has crafted a beautifully-executed menu that tries to share the riches of his adopted Bavarian home and show off the richness of the Tegernsee region. 

Just outside the restaurant- the Tegernsee

Just outside the restaurant- the Tegernsee

The hotel actually has three different restaurants, and from casual observation I could conclude that Überfahrt has the lion's share of marketing talent, interior decoration skill, and general thought put into it. The interior is entirely referential to nature- every drink stand, bread tray, or other mobile object seems to be fashioned from some sort of log. I get that Jürgens is putting together a panorama of the beautifully forested natural setting, but he really hits you over the head with it. 

First course: Cheese + "Moss," 8/10

First course: Cheese + "Moss," 8/10

The rock sitting underneath this fern-y cheese dish was served cold and slick with condensation. On top, you can see the "trees" and the watercress "moss." Have you gotten that this is a nature panorama yet? Like I said, a bit over the top. 

Texture was not bad and the dish is exceptionally creamy (as to be expected). Though the wet rock makes for an odd experience, the cheese is excellent and goes perfectly with the accompanying bread crisps, which tasted precisely like Wheat Thins. 8/10. 

2nd Course: Quail Egg, 7/10

2nd Course: Quail Egg, 7/10

On an elevated pylon of a dish, quail egg, milk bread, and house made butter came next. The butter is highly aromatic; you can smell it across the table. Looming in the center of the plate is an enormous truffle, wet and fresh on top of the egg. Super rich sauce. A nice start but nothing too crazy. 8/10. The house-made butter is heavenly good.

3rd Course: Caviar, 8/10

3rd Course: Caviar, 8/10

Cod-on-a-Stick

Cod-on-a-Stick

Another cool serving platform- this one almost like a mini-champage bucket. The caviar is served very cold with olive oil, a nice tomato and bell pepper salsa underneath gives vegetable flavors but not much spice. Serving in the caviar dish was a nice touch. Cod on a stick came on the side- it was tasty but tough to eat without spilling fish particles. 8/10.

4th Course: Artichoke + Egg, 9/10

4th Course: Artichoke + Egg, 9/10

Next came artichoke with egg and herbs. An almost pastalike texture with bold flavors. The artichoke itself is fresh and perfect. An adventuresome dish with simple ingredients. 9/10.

5th Course: "Spring Roll" with Langoustine, 8/10

5th Course: "Spring Roll" with Langoustine, 8/10

This deconstructed spring roll dish came with deep fried langoustine. Basically, just imagine chicken McNugget langoustines. 8/10. 

6th Course: "Firebird," Pigeon + Salsify + Green Pepper Sauce, 9/10

6th Course: "Firebird," Pigeon + Salsify + Green Pepper Sauce, 9/10

Delicious chanterelle mushrooms, pleasingly adhered to the top of the bird. The pigeon is softly cooked, giving it an absolutely supreme tenderness. Beautifully spiced, goes great with salsify. A near-perfect main course. 9/10

7th Course: Cheese, 8/10

7th Course: Cheese, 8/10

A creative, pretty half-moon presentation of sheep and goat cheese. Super thin goat cheese with apricots underneath. Uncomfortably hard bits. Hearty for a cheese dish. Great mix of textures. A Shitload of cheese. 8/10

8th Course: Zuppa Romana, 9/10

8th Course: Zuppa Romana, 9/10

The next dessert was fantastic- Zuppa Romana made of mascarpone- was both creamy and cakey on the inside. Some super cold bits gave it a fun contrasting experience, with lots of fun crunchy textures. 9/10. 

9th Course: Winter Garden Patisseries, 7/10

9th Course: Winter Garden Patisseries, 7/10

Black Forest Cake

Black Forest Cake

A charming little cabinet with a selection of pick-your-own cake. I chose a small flower pot of Black Forest cherry cake. Good but not great. 7/10.

Bill + Chef's Hat

Bill + Chef's Hat

I thought that this was adorable. You get a little tiny chef's hat, served on a teeny-tiny Le Creuset-style cooking pot. A charming end to the meal that made me laugh. 

UK- Gordon Ramsay Royal Hospital Road- ✪✪✪

Gordon Ramsay Royal Hospital Road Main Entrance

Gordon Ramsay Royal Hospital Road Main Entrance

LONDON, UK

SERVICE: 9.5/10

FOOD: 9.5/10

PRICE PAID: $428 PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 8.5/10

FINAL SCORE: 9.0/10

Clare Smythe, Chef Patron

Clare Smythe, Chef Patron

Flagship of the enormous Gordon Ramsay empire is his Royal Hospital road restaurant. Led by Chef Patron Clare Smythe, this restaurant has held its 3-star rating for almost 14 years; appointed in 2007, Clare is the only female chef to hold this title in the Michelin-star world. 

The restaurant itself is small and straightforward- a square room with capacity for around 40 guests on no-messing around plain white tablecloths. 

The first thing I'd like to say about the restaurant is that service was across the board top-notch. Attentive, friendly, sincere. This is the place to go for a seriously important life milestone, because at every moment of the meal someone was paying unbelievably close attention to our experience and making sure we were having the time of our lives. 

Butter in a beehive

Butter in a beehive

First Bites: Ricotta + Mint, 10/10

First Bites: Ricotta + Mint, 10/10

First bites are some pretty delectable ricotta cheese and mint. Small sliced tomatoes. Fiery radishes and flower petals. Summery and fun. Tastes like a garden, in a good way. This is how the world's most decadent rabbit feels. Delicious. 10/10.

1st Course: Foie + Duck, 9/10

1st Course: Foie + Duck, 9/10

1B: Brioche

1B: Brioche

This beautiful little rectangle is foie with duck. The duck is rich and amazing. The foie is very good, but doesn't outshine the duck itself. Both pair excellently with included brioche. There's a strong Pepper Madeira, flavor buried somewhere underneath, which creates a cool effect.  9/10. So far, I'm getting excited because this is the best start I've had so far.

2nd Course: Lobster Ravioli, 9/10

2nd Course: Lobster Ravioli, 9/10

I was told by our server that this is the restaurant's signature dish- lobster ravioli- and has been offered since they opened. Green sauce really brings out the lobster flavor. Just look at those colors, for God's sake. 9/10.

3rd Course: Halibut + Rose Water Broth, 10/10

3rd Course: Halibut + Rose Water Broth, 10/10

Next arrived a delicate rose water broth saddled with some so-fresh-its-falling-apart-I'm-not-kidding halibut. This is Absolutely Perfect. 10/10.

4th Course: Pigeon + Cherry, 10/10

4th Course: Pigeon + Cherry, 10/10

Next, a perfect, rich pairing of pigeon and cherries. The pillow-soft and tender pigeon is likely the best bird I've ever tasted. 10/10. 

5th Course: Cheese, 8/10

5th Course: Cheese, 8/10

Soft Cheeses

Soft Cheeses

An excellent but not overwhelming cheese tray, with plenty of great soft cheese selections from all over France and the UK. I asked the waiter for his recommendations, and he was able to knowledgeably recite data about each selection from heart. I was impressed. 8/10.

6th Course: Mint Palate Cleanser, 9/10

6th Course: Mint Palate Cleanser, 9/10

Post-Pestle-ing

Post-Pestle-ing

Next, a mint palate cleanser that comes with a pestle and mortar you grind yourself. I love, love creative dishes like this that get you involved in the course, even if your involvement is totally ceremonial (and, it always is). 9/10.

7th Course- Lemonade Sorbert + Spun Honey, 10/10

7th Course- Lemonade Sorbert + Spun Honey, 10/10

Hard to believe, but another total stunner came across the transom next. The jelly reflects bubbles in the expertly-chosen plate. Lemonade sorbet with the spun honey forming a bridge over the top. I'm told that this is Claire Smythe's work, and I believe it. 10/10

elderflower Turkish delight, frozen lemon balls, and some peanut brittle with salt served as our final statement for the meal. An absolutely exquisite finale to a near-perfect meal. 10/10.

I'm comfortable saying that this is the finest restaurant experience I have had on my adventure so far. 

Caramel, 9/10

France- L'Astrance- Two Stars

Update: in the 2019 Michelin guidebook, L’Astrance lost their third star after 11 years on top. Three 3-stars lost their coveted third in the 2019 book, causing quite a stir. I expect L’Astrance will be back!

PARIS, FRANCE

SERVICE: 9.0/10

FOOD: 8.5/10

PRICE PAID: $184 PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 8.5/10

FINAL SCORE: 8.5/10

Pascal Barbot

Pascal Barbot

Pascal Barbot is an up-and-coming culinary all-star. His tiny 25-seat restaurant, tucked under the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, is a beautiful statement in modern French style. Service was almost coffee-bar casual at certain points, which was actually a hugely welcome change from some of the more formal Parisian 3-star neighbors. 


First Bites- Vegetable Tart 10/10

First Bites- Vegetable Tart 10/10

A tart with layers of foie gras and mushroom appeared first, with cirtus and fruit creme dollops flanking it. A great start. 10/10.

1st Course: Apple + Mushroom, 8/10

1st Course: Apple + Mushroom, 8/10

Layers of Mushroom Underneath

Layers of Mushroom Underneath

Next came thinly sliced apple and mushroom tart. Lots of work! Layers of soft mushroom and crunchier apple work well together. Enjoyable and interesting course. 8/10.

2nd Course: Oyster + Flower Salad, 10/10

2nd Course: Oyster + Flower Salad, 10/10

Oysters with a salad that brimming with bright flowers. A stunningly beautiful presentation. Small leaves have an almost coconutty, tropical flavor. Amazing dish. I can't quite place the taste of the small round baked guy; doesn't matter, it's delicious. 10/10.

3rd Course: Mackerel + Dipping Sauce, 10/10

3rd Course: Mackerel + Dipping Sauce, 10/10

The Dippin' Sauce

The Dippin' Sauce

Mackerel with a big ol' dipping sauce. This is easily the best mackerel grillé I've ever had. Underneath is a base of extremely soft material- tastes like mozzarella. Flavor is woody and smoky, the seeds on top have a great crunch. Love this dish. 10/10.

4th Course: Veal + Black Truffle, 10/10

4th Course: Veal + Black Truffle, 10/10

The main act is this dish of veal and black truffle. Super soft and delicious. A deep, dark, forest floor-y dish, in a good way. 10/10.

5th Course: Duck + Oregano + Cherry, 10/10

5th Course: Duck + Oregano + Cherry, 10/10

As a follow-up main, duck with oregano and cherries. Oregano sets the Cherries and duck off perfectly. A hint of salt. Duck-and-cherry pairings are traditional and a bit predictable in French cuisine, but this one sets a new, high bar. 10/10. Inside the cherries is an almond oregano mixture.

6th Course: Cheese Course 8/10

6th Course: Cheese Course 8/10

First cheese course is a beautifully presented flower with melon leaf and red fruit. A ton of goat cheese on the inside. 8/10

6A: Melon Leaf

6A: Melon Leaf

6B: Nectarine Cracker

6B: Nectarine Cracker

Next, a "cracker" and nectarine dish. Cracker is fun and full of fruit. Delicious. Nectarine has a sorbet richness. Simple and peachy. 9/10.

Course 7: Fruit + Sorbet + Egg + Madeleine's, 9/10

Course 7: Fruit + Sorbet + Egg + Madeleine's, 9/10

Final round of dessert is fruit, sorbet, egg custard, and Madeleine's. The fruit is fresh and delicious. I haven't seen stuff this fresh anywhere in Paris.

7B: Sorbet

7B: Sorbet

7C: Egg Custard

7C: Egg Custard

7D: Madeleine's

7D: Madeleine's

France- La Maison Lameloise- ✪✪✪

Seated in the heart of Burgundy wine country, La Maison Lameloise has been 3-star rated since 1979, and has been run by the Lameloise family for three generations (Pierre, Jean, and then Jacques). Éric Pras took over the kitchen in 2008, and has maintained the hotel/restaurant's 3-star status ever since.

Maison Lameloise Exterior

Maison Lameloise Exterior

CHAGNY, FRANCE (BURGUNDY WINE COUNTRY)

SERVICE: 7.5/10

FOOD: 8.0/10

PRICE PAID: $255PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 8.0/10

FINAL SCORE: 7.5/10

Eric Pras

Eric Pras

Renovated into a hotel in 1921, the gorgeous Lameloise building was originally a 15th-Century coach house.

Currently under the leadership of Eric Pras, the restaurant was run by three generations of Lameloise chefs (Pierre from 1921-1944, Jean from 1944-1971, and Jacques from 1971-2009). The restaurant achieved its third Michelin star in 1979, and has held it since. 

Eric, only 36, has worked with Pierre Gagnaire, Bernard Loiseau, and many other famous French all-star chefs. He's filling some big shoes at Lameloise. 

According to his website, Eric is attracted to ideas like: "nothing is as difficult as simplicity." I like a good chef-philosopher. 


First ites, 8/10

First ites, 8/10

First off, a beautiful and diverse amuse; each plate lands delicately and precisely from a different server. It's a very pretty and hearty welcome to the restaurant. Starting with the foie gras spoons, this dish is stunningly good.

First bites: Micro Sandwiches

First bites: Micro Sandwiches

Second Spoon is very pretty but flavors are just okay- interesting crunchy texture combined with a nice soft foundation.

All the way on the left, some micro sandwiches with preserved meat. Delicious. 9/10.

First bites: Snail + Tomato, Canapes, 8/10

First bites: Snail + Tomato, Canapes, 8/10

Tomato with snail is served warm- a super-Burgundian dish- and the fruits themselves are exploding with ripeness. The circular canapés are bland and don't say as much. 8/10.

1st Course: Melon + Chèvre Soup, 9/10

1st Course: Melon + Chèvre Soup, 9/10

What an awesome idea- melon with melon water and goat's cheese in the center. Dashes of olive oil and spices make this thing really sing together. Clever, creative, and the chèvre is quite strong and pairs nicely with the melon. 9/10.

2nd Course: Lobster Ravioli + Summer Fruits, 10/10

2nd Course: Lobster Ravioli + Summer Fruits, 10/10

Course 2B: Tempura Lobster Claw

Course 2B: Tempura Lobster Claw

The next course is super interesting- ravioli with lobster and a fried tempura claw on the side. The claw is piping hot, and the server recommends that it be eaten first; delicious. The strawberries are frozen-cold, which is a fun contrast. Strawberry-tomato sauce ties it together perfectly. Original, interesting, delicious. 10/10.

3rd Course: Turbot + Rhubarb + Pasta, 7/10

3rd Course: Turbot + Rhubarb + Pasta, 7/10

This course of turbot with rhubarb in small pastas has stand-out fish, but the small mushrooms and spinach don't match it. Neutral, buttery taste accentuated by the very-buttery sauce. 7/10.

4th Course: Foie Gras, 7/10

4th Course: Foie Gras, 7/10

Next is a very pretty plate of foie gras with coquilettes and haricot. The small hard squares are tasty and precisely-made, but the Foie itself is unremarkable and heavy. 7/10.

5th Course: Veal + Zucchini, 9/10

5th Course: Veal + Zucchini, 9/10

"Veau avec courgettes," accompanied by a cracker with more courgettes. This dish exhibits a deep, smoky flavor; super complex. Beautiful colors and a confident, beautiful presentation. 9/10.

6th Course: Cheese Tray, 10/10

6th Course: Cheese Tray, 10/10

I would have been terribly sad if the cheese cart in a 3-star Burgundy restaurant was anything short of spectacular. An enormous assortment of beautifully laid-out, delicious cheeses from many different local farms. I asked for the house specialties and got a pretty excellent selection of soft cheeses. 10/10.

Soft cheeses

Soft cheeses

7th Course: Lemon Ice + Petit Fours, 9/10

7th Course: Lemon Ice + Petit Fours, 9/10

Next up is the first dessert course- lemon ice, small petit fours... The apricot-flavored bite all the way on the right is lovely and bright, the chocolate guy tastes just like a s'more. Raspberry tartelette has a nice spice on it. 9/10. 

Raspberry Tartelette

Raspberry Tartelette

8th Course: Crêpes Suzette, 9/10

8th Course: Crêpes Suzette, 9/10

Preparing the Crêpes Suzette tableside

Preparing the Crêpes Suzette tableside

This next dessert was totally over-the-top; Crêpes Suzette made tableside with sorbet, Grand Marnier, and small petit fours. The Grand Marnier flavor charges through loud and clear. Oranges play off nicely. 9/10 and great presentation. Sorbet had a marshmallow- shaped ice cream underneath.

Sorbet

Sorbet

Final Bites: Hard + Soft Passion Fruit, 9/10

Final Bites: Hard + Soft Passion Fruit, 9/10

Lastly, a small plate of hard and soft Passion fruit candy. An excellent conclusion. 9/10.

UK- Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester- ✪✪✪

The Dorchester Hotel Lobby

The Dorchester Hotel Lobby

LONDON, UK

SERVICE: 7.5/10

FOOD: 8.5/10

PRICE PAID: $280 PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 8.5/10

FINAL SCORE: 8.0/10

Jocelyn Herland

Jocelyn Herland

Located in London Mayfair right near the Marble Arch in the beautiful (if a bit overdone) Hotel D0rchester is Alain Ducasse's UK flagship restaurant. Headed up by chef Jocelyn Herland, this is only one of 27 restaurants in the Ducasse empire. It has held its third star since 2010; an impressive record after opening only in 2007. 

Herland previously ran La Plaza Athénée in Paris, and was hand-picked to run Ducasse's London headquarters.  

A few quick notes about the interior- sited in the already gorgeous Dorchester hotel, the restaurant itself is full of natural, understated colors and a few design flairs. A fiber-optic-lit machination called La Table Lumière sits in the corner (I happened to be seated right next to it) for those wishing for a more secluded experience. During my meal, a toweringly obnoxious couple from California dined with their little girl who kept throwing her caviar and seafood whilst requesting chicken nuggets. At certain points, I couldn't blame her.

 

La Table Lumière

La Table Lumière


The Dorchester Lobby- just stunning

The Dorchester Lobby- just stunning

First Bites: Cheese snacks, 7/10

First Bites: Cheese snacks, 7/10

Our first bites were an enormous pile of cheese snacks. Hollow spheres of breaded cheese- what an interesting start to a meal- and I'm not kidding when I say it was, like, two pounds of snacks. 7/10.

Salted + Unsalted Butters

Salted + Unsalted Butters

1st Course: Lobster + Asparagus, 8/10

1st Course: Lobster + Asparagus, 8/10

First course is a beautiful, thoughtful presentation of lobster with raw and cooked asparagus. Sauce is awesome. Lobster is perfectly cooked and fresh. 8/10.

2nd Course: Foie Gras + Peach, 9/10

2nd Course: Foie Gras + Peach, 9/10

Next, we had some duck foie gras stuffed with peach. Foie is almost refreshingly light. 9/10.

3rd Course: Langoustine + Ravioli, 10/10

3rd Course: Langoustine + Ravioli, 10/10

Thirdly, some Scottish langoustine served with squid ink ravioli. Soft and rich. The broth ties things together perfectly with flavors of green mango and lemongrass, what an exceptional and memorable dish. 10/10. 

4th Course: Turbot + Clams, 8/10

4th Course: Turbot + Clams, 8/10

Next, a generous cube of turbot with clams and beans. The beans are a nice textural partner to both. 8/10.

5th Course: Beef, 7/10

5th Course: Beef, 7/10

The only mild disappointment of the evening was, unfortunately, the main. This beef was overcooked and not well matched in its black olive jus. 7/10.

6th Course: Cheese, 9/10

6th Course: Cheese, 9/10

Some excellent Comté Garde Exceptionnelle from 2012. 9/10.

7th Course: Macarons, 9/10

7th Course: Macarons, 9/10

Ducasse must enjoy the looks on his patrons' faces when staff members come by and dump enormous quantities of baked goods on their table. These macarons and chocolate are excellent, but once again: there are a shitload of them. 9/10

8th Course: Chocolate + Ganache, 8/10

8th Course: Chocolate + Ganache, 8/10

Surprisingly similar to Milky Way bars; the chocolate and ganache dessert is another pleasing contribution to the finish. 8/10.

9th Course: Mignardises + Gourmandises

9th Course: Mignardises + Gourmandises

France- Pierre Gagnaire- ✪✪✪

PARIS, FRANCE

SERVICE: 9.0/10

FOOD: 8.5/10

PRICE PAID: $154 PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 8.0/10

FINAL SCORE: 8.5/10

Tucked into the tiny Hotel Balzac right off the Champs-Élysées in Paris is Pierre Gagnaire's eponymous establishment. 

The restaurant itself reminds me a bit of the Simpson's episode where Moe attempts to turn his bar into a family-dining restaurant. 

"If you like good food, good fun, and a whole lot of…crazy crap on the walls, then come on down to Uncle Moe's Family Feedbag." I mostly thought that because there are a ton of newspaper clippings, old medical journal pages, and what one may generally term as crazy crap on the walls of this iconoclast chef. It's actually pretty tasteful and fun to look at.

 

First Bites: Cherries, Watermelon, Grape, + Herbs, 9/10

First Bites: Cherries, Watermelon, Grape, + Herbs, 9/10

To kick things off, a black squid ink ball, Uzu lemon tart with black olives in small shot glass, and a big glass with cherries, watermelon, grape, herbs. Zingy and super tasty. 9/10.

First Bites: Paprika breadsticks, 9/10

First Bites: Paprika breadsticks, 9/10

Hand-rolled breadsticks with paprika came next.. The small balls with dots are pumpernickel and Parmesan. Simple but delicious. At the bottom of the sticks' bowl is a delicious red meat sauce. Fun, complex, interesting, engaging. 9/10.

Breads + Butter

Breads + Butter

Log-shaped butter

Log-shaped butter

Delicious, delicous bread and butter. I have to say that the log-shaped butter is a clever and interesting presentation.

Just-baked breads

Just-baked breads

1st Course: The Smorgasbord, 8/10

1st Course: The Smorgasbord, 8/10

There's a lot going on in this course, so like a dork I'll break it down into constituent parts and discuss each. Overall rating is 8/10.

Course 1A: Skate wing, White Fish, Seaweed, 9/10

Course 1A: Skate wing, White Fish, Seaweed, 9/10

This skate wing is soft, tender, served in a fork and presented on top of seaweed and "pillars" of white fish... Delicate sea flavor with strong salinity. Great balance of textures. 9/10.

Course 1B: Red Currant Soup, 8/10

Course 1B: Red Currant Soup, 8/10

Next was some red currant soup- flavorful and sweet. 8/10.

Course 1C: Cuttlefish & Green Apple, 9/10

Course 1C: Cuttlefish & Green Apple, 9/10

Cuttlefish and green apple- almost potato-like starchy flavors... 9/10.

Course 1D: Crab & Bone Marrow Bisque, 9/10

Course 1D: Crab & Bone Marrow Bisque, 9/10

Green crab with bone marrow bisque was next- ungodly rich, with a big umami flavor. Such an interesting statement in contrast to the lighter dishes served next to it. 9/10.

Course 1E: Anchovy, 8/10

Course 1E: Anchovy, 8/10

Though normally not the biggest fan of complete, raw fish (my first experience at Hyotei was certainly mixed) this anchovy is crisp and crunchy. Check out the beautiful presentation on the folded leaf- 8/10. 

2nd Course: Liver Mousseline + Veggies, 7/10

2nd Course: Liver Mousseline + Veggies, 7/10

As a layup to the final savory courses, this liver mousseline with green veggies and flat beans arrived. A dense, rich presentation that played decently well together but not perfectly. A big heavy dish that made me feel full right before the big courses. 7/10.

3rd Course: Duck + Potatoes, 9/10

3rd Course: Duck + Potatoes, 9/10

Duck and potatoes are outstanding and rich. Look at those colors! 9/10.

4th Course: White fish, Potatoes + Greens, 9/10

4th Course: White fish, Potatoes + Greens, 9/10

A touch greasy, but an overall refreshing seafood dish to round things out before dessert.

5th Course: Petits Fours and small desserts, 8/10

5th Course: Petits Fours and small desserts, 8/10

Fun, lavishly presented Petit Fours and hand-made desserts. 8/10.

6th Course: Strawberry Everything Dessert

6th Course: Strawberry Everything Dessert

Dessert part one was three version of strawberry desserts- the thin pasty to the right cracked with the gentlest touch of the spoon; some were served hot and some were served cold. Reminded me of one of my favorite desserts of all time from Ryugin. 9/10.

7th Course: Dessert part deux, 8/10

7th Course: Dessert part deux, 8/10

A lovely assortment of cheesecake, cherries, and currants... Fruity and light; 8/10

Beautiful, hand-carved presentation

Beautiful, hand-carved presentation

Last Bites: Handmade fruit and nut bricks, 9/10

Last Bites: Handmade fruit and nut bricks, 9/10

What struck me most about this meal was the sheer creativity of the front- and back- of the house working together. Every dish was set down with a synchronized flourish from the very well-trained staff, and the kitchen is obviously willing to try new things. A fantastic restaurant, and well worth the visit. 

France- Le Pre Catelan- ✪✪✪

Le Pre Catelan Exterior

Le Pre Catelan Exterior

PARIS, FRANCE

SERVICE: 8.0/10

FOOD: 6.5/10

PRICE PAID: $316 PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 7.0/10

FINAL SCORE: 7.0/10

Frédéric Anton

Frédéric Anton

Nestled in a very pretty corner of the very sad, prostitute-laden Bois de Boulogne sits the castle-like Pre Catelan. 

Frédéric Anton has run the place since 1997; prior to that, he was a head chef in the Robuchon empire. Le Pre Catelan has held two stars since 2000 and got their third in 2007, putting them on the youngish end of the spectrum for French restaurants that hold three stars. 

With an exterior I can only call "Lordly," and "Indifferent to its Surroundings," the restaurant hulks silently in the extremely drab woods to the West of Paris known primarily for its criminal activity. As the Uber vehicle took me down the driveway, a hooker with broken heels and hole-filled stockings stood at the end and stared listlessly ahead. I have never been to a more surreal and dislikable space, but was willing to be open-minded about the meal. 


Can you guess where this butter was served?

Can you guess where this butter was served?

Uh oh, it looks like someone has discovered the joys of branding their butter. I haven't seen a move quite this hokey yet, but I suppose there's a first time for everything. I'd love to have been in the staff meeting where someone floated this idea:

"Guests will see the butter, and they'll be like, 'Holy shit, I'm at the Pre Catelan right now.' And we'll be all, 'Your mind is blown right now, right brah?" And then, profit."

First Bites: Vegetable Soup, 6/10

First Bites: Vegetable Soup, 6/10

First out of the gates- a surprisingly bland-looking vegetable soup. It was light and fairly refreshing, but not much of a start. The culinary equivalent of a limp-spaghetti handshake. 6/10.

1st Course: Crab Soup + Caviar,  9/10

1st Course: Crab Soup + Caviar,  9/10

French Caviar

French Caviar

Laced with some pretty attractive curry tones, this crab soup was a much stronger opening statement. What can only be described as an enormous quantity of caviar flanked the dish, and offset the creaminess with a zingy salinity that was more than welcome. Unlike most caviar, this comes from France; an interesting statement about the precedence of things French. 9/10.

2nd Course: Lobster Ravioli, 9/10

2nd Course: Lobster Ravioli, 9/10

Served with a foie gras cream and a pretty ludicrous number of gold flakes, this lobster ravioli was as decadent as it was pretty. 9/10.

3rd Course:  Cod + Algae, 10/10

3rd Course:  Cod + Algae, 10/10

A really impressive and colorful presentation of cod with algae. Came with a side of some of the best mashed potatoes I've ever had. The fish almost pops open. This was a really outstanding seafood dish. 10/10.

4th Course: Veal + Sweetbreads, 5/10

4th Course: Veal + Sweetbreads, 5/10

Course 4A: Onion Rings

Course 4A: Onion Rings

If you've ever dined in Cajun Country, most Louisiana restaurants worth their salt will offer some kind of plate called a "heart attack special." This was Le Pre Catelan's Heart Attack special. I literally could not believe how much of this course was fried in heavy oil, and most of it is some heavy-duty stuff to begin with. Veal, sweetbreads, fried onions... While fairly tasty, I have to be honest: I didn't want to finish. 5/10.

5th Course: Cheese, 9/10

5th Course: Cheese, 9/10

Some pretty excellent cheeses came next- to the left is a "Pays Basque," which is neutral but pleasant, exhibiting some decent Gouda flavors. To the right- a cheese called "La Langue"- has a rose flavor to it. It is made from cows milk from Champagne and Burgundy, and has a wonderful spectrum of flavor. 9/10.

6th Course: Balsalmic Cream, 8/10

6th Course: Balsalmic Cream, 8/10

This white fluffy guy has surprisingly strong balsamic flavors, with what is essentially ice cream on the inside. Charming. 8/10.

7th Course: Petit Fours, 8/10

7th Course: Petit Fours, 8/10

Finally, three small desserts on a plate. The one all the way on the left is super nutty; the second has strong coconut flavors, and the third is awesome and extremely strawberry-y. I notice that Anton can't help but spread a bit more gold leaf on the last one. 8/10.

Le Pre Catalan (15 of 15).jpg

An uneven meal, with some pretty fantastic wins (the cod) and some pretty memorable overreaches (the veal). 

France- Epicure- ✪✪✪

Epicure Breakfast Table

Epicure Breakfast Table

PARIS, FRANCE

SERVICE: 9.5/10

FOOD: 7.5/10

PRICE PAID: $90 PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 8.0/10

FINAL SCORE: 8.0/10

Located in the gorgeous Hotel Bristol and overlooking a lush interior garden, Epicure keeps all the beauty of French cuisine without making it intimidating or snooty.  Service was casual but friendly, and this was some of the best breakfast food I have ever enjoyed. Period.

1st Course: Salmon & Flatbread, 9/10

1st Course: Salmon & Flatbread, 9/10

First out was some gloriously simple salmon and flatbreads. The salmon is smoky and super fresh. The bread is fluffy and soft. The cream is super dense and rich. This is true breakfast. 9/10.

2nd Course: Jambon, 8/10

2nd Course: Jambon, 8/10

Presentation was a touch messy, but this ham with cream sauce was salty and delicious. Good balance of textures.  8/10.

3rd Course: Golden Eggs, 10/10

3rd Course: Golden Eggs, 10/10

Beyond being unspeakably decadent (gold and all...) this egg custard with caviar served perfectly in a dark-colored shell was an explosion of flavor and textures. A really well thought-out dish; and the yolk was on the bottom.

4th Course: Fruit & Yogurt, 6/10

4th Course: Fruit & Yogurt, 6/10

Branded Fruit Plate

Branded Fruit Plate

Ended on a bit of a disappointing note, sadly- not particularly fresh fruit or good yogurt- 6/10- also, as an American I'm accustomed to Greek yogurt, so this "real" yogurt tastes like water. I like that they took the opportunity t0 brand the dish, though.

France- L'Assiette Champenoise- ✪✪✪

TINQUEUX (REIMS), FRANCE

SERVICE: 6.0/10

FOOD: 7.5/10

PRICE PAID: $233 PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 7.0/10

FINAL SCORE: 7.0/10

In a beautiful, hilly neighborhood near Reims called Tinqueux you can find this gorgeous Champagne Country hotel/restaurant . I joined them for dinner and a night's stay courtesy of my hotels.com tactics, and selected their middle-of-the-road menu called "Savor." 

Hate to be a jerk, but service here was average at very best. Not only were the people working there totally disinterested in explaining anything in English (I know, a very American expectation) they were hard-pressed to say anything at all in French, either. In addition, even though this was a relatively small number of courses, we managed to hit close to five hours. Mostly by being ignored for forty minutes at a stretch. Absurdly long.

1st Course: Tomato & Spinach Croquettes, 7/10

1st Course: Tomato & Spinach Croquettes, 7/10

First out were two filling courses of vegetable pie- tomato and spinach- that were an interestingly heavy introduction to the menu. 7/10.

2nd Course: Veggie Ensemble, 7/10

2nd Course: Veggie Ensemble, 7/10

A pretty grouping of vegetables in a light broth emerged next. I liked the panache of the carved carrot inserted on top- pretty to look at, but rather bland to eat. 7/10.

3rd Course: Tomatos & Vegetables, 10/10

3rd Course: Tomatos & Vegetables, 10/10

This course was, without a doubt, the rockstar of the evening. I couldn't believe how much fine knifework went into this extensive, summery vegetable presentation. Insanely creative and crispy-fresh to boot. 10/10.

4th Course: Ginger in Vegetable broth, 8/10

4th Course: Ginger in Vegetable broth, 8/10

Another gorgeous dish served with the perfect plating: ginger and a light vegetable broth to round out the salad courses. 8/10.

5th Course: Brittany Mullet with Scales, 8/10

5th Course: Brittany Mullet with Scales, 8/10

A fascinatingly spiny Brittany Mullet was served next- cauliflower and broccoli served as an interesting textural contrast to the fresh fish. 8/10.

6th Course: Hen & Potato, 8/10

6th Course: Hen & Potato, 8/10

A very traditional, simple presentation of hen and potato. The standalone leaf is a pretty but merely decorative addition. 8/10.

7th Course: Chocolates, Served in Silver-Chocolate Dish, 8/10

7th Course: Chocolates, Served in Silver-Chocolate Dish, 8/10

I think it's pretty cool that the restaurant bothered to have cocoa bean-shaped serving dishes made custom for serving their first chocolate dessert. The chocolates themselves were delicious but a bit too creamy. 8/10.

8th Course: Tons of small baked goods, 7/10

8th Course: Tons of small baked goods, 7/10

This next dessert could only be described as a shitload of sweet baked goods. Eating one was a delicious treat; eating seven was work. 7/10.

9th Course: Chocolate Tarte, 9/10

9th Course: Chocolate Tarte, 9/10

I like how the shape of the curl of chocolate on the tart recalled the first vegetable course. A creative, pretty finish to some pretty stellar food. 9/10.

France- Bernard Loiseau- ✪✪

UPDATE: Some very sad news- Le Relais Bernard Loiseau has lost its third star, and as of the 2016 book is now a 2-star restaurant. Michelin is under some pressure for the stress their three star rating puts on chefs- interesting reads here and here

Bernard Loiseau Exterior

Bernard Loiseau Exterior

SAULIEU, FRANCE (NEAR BURGUNDY WINE COUNTRY)

SERVICE: 8.5/10

FOOD: 7.5/10

PRICE PAID: $328 PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 8.0/10

FINAL SCORE: 8.0/10

Occupying a prominent space in the very small downtown of Saulieu, Bernard Loiseau seems to be an industry to itself- by the time you’ve added up the space taken by the hotel, the restaurant, the spa, and the shop with all the Bernard Loiseau collectibles, you’re in the double-digit percentages for the town's economy overall. 

As seems the tradition with excellent European countryside restaurant/inns that have achieved 3-star status, after checking in at the front desk I was immediately asked if I would like an aperitif on the beautiful garden terrace. Laid out neatly under large, Sherbet-Orange colored awnings is one of the most tranquil and beautiful gardens I have ever visited.

The unspeakably gorgeous garden

The unspeakably gorgeous garden

The gardens butt up against the pool and cabins that are part of the property- I took a walk down there, and the garden is full of beautiful hand-hewn stones like this one:

Awesome hand-hewn stone

Awesome hand-hewn stone

An interesting note about the experience- the restaurant uses the terrace experience as a staging point- you gather your thoughts about the meal and make dinner, dessert, and wine selections all in advance before proceeding to the dining room.

The dining room itself has a tall, airy feel- almost like a ballroom or a tiki hut. The beams are light and fashioned from wood, and most of the lighting on this bright summer day was natural with small artificial lights further to back close to the kitchen. All around was bright, verdant greenery, colorful flowers, and insects humming in an intensely-alive environment. 

Service, led by the dynamic and friendly Eric, is formal and in a typical head waiter- assistant waiter- server- runner format, with at least six different people including the sommelier stopping by at some point during the meal. The attitudes were quiet and respectful but not haughty, and I got great service from everyone involved, except one runner who seemed bent on getting me to consume another glass of wine before a very long drive, which I politely declined three times.

First Bites: Light Baked Bread, 8/10

First Bites: Light Baked Bread, 8/10

Upon receiving my aperitif, a small dish of light baked bread with cheese arrived. Excellent for pairing with a light drink or champagne, they were warm and tasty. 8/10.

First Bites; Amuse-bouches, 9/10

First Bites; Amuse-bouches, 9/10

Next, a small plate of amuse-bouches. The one on the left is effectively a fried cheese-ball with rice inside- super homey and delicious- the square is crunchy, and the spoon was a creamy, fruity delight. 9/10.

For the next courses, I was led into the dining room and was almost immediately greeted with this fascinatingly-colored, delicious dish:

1st Course: Tiny Bird Legs, 8/10

1st Course: Tiny Bird Legs, 8/10

Tiny, delicate pigeon on the bone in a green minty sauce; the server encouraged me to eat it with my fingers- they provided a small dish of water with lemon for cleansing. 

The taste was rich and delicious- imagine the tenderest, softest chicken wing you’ve ever had- and the sauce paired well and made total sense. I skipped the cream in the middle, since it just seemed like an excuse to pile on the fat to this already caloric dish. Also, there was butter:

Butter

Butter

2nd Course: Sabot fish & Red Wine Sauce, 7/10

2nd Course: Sabot fish & Red Wine Sauce, 7/10

Next came an extremely pretty Sabot fish in red wine sauce with skin perfectly seared on top. The white fish was flaky and soft; basically perfectly cooked . My only complaint here was that the red wine sauce took things a touch far- there’s no reasonable way to pair anything except a rich sauce with this extremely light fish, I get that- but it was overwhelming. Like taking a delicate piece of sushi an smothering it in McDonald’s BBQ sauce. 7/10. 

I’ll take a moment to mention that Eric pointed out the plates used in the “Bernard Loiseau Classics” menu- they’re all at least 25 years old, and all but 4 of them have survived service in the restaurant since they were made in the 80s. They were all pretty and accentuated the dishes nicely.

3rd Course: Chicken, Liver, Black Truffle, 10/10

3rd Course: Chicken, Liver, Black Truffle, 10/10

Next, a truly perfect dish of soft chicken breast with liver, black truffle potatoes, and asparagus. You won’t find a more classic French dish anywhere in the world, and this one was executed just perfectly.  The breast was incredibly soft but somehow still well cooked enough to avoid being pink. The potatoes, heavy with truffle, backed up the protein with perfection. The asparagus was bracingly fresh and stood well on its own or with the vegetables and chicken. The liver was a touch rich, but coming off a full week eating food with that kind of richness I’m willing to give them a pass. 10/10. 

4th Course: Cheese, 5/10

4th Course: Cheese, 5/10

To round things out, they hauled up their unremarkable cheese dish with way too many mild cow, mild sheep, and uninteresting goat cheese options.

Cheese Selections

Cheese Selections

I selected some Epoisse and some monk’s cheese- the experience was utterly similar to spending ten minutes at the cheese counter at any Whole Foods. The server didn’t have much advice either, and for some reason was surprised that I hadn’t already selected my cheese in advance. 5/10. 

Three small decadent desserts arrived next, each with a small fleck of edible gold leaf- the first one chocolatey, the second one creamy and herbacious, the third one rich apple-flavored. They were paired up next to this delicious monstrosity:

5th Course: Dessert Pastries, 9/10

5th Course: Dessert Pastries, 9/10

Self-suspended layers of chocolate crackers held together with extremely dark, rich chocolate ice cream. A melon sauce surrounded the outside- it was a huge dish to take down, and a rewarding and delicious dessert. 9/10.

Lastly, a tiny plate with a baked almond “cresting wave,” a tiny pâte de fruits, and a dark chocolate truffle with the Bernard Loiseau logo. All delicious and super over the top. 9/10

6th Course: "Cresting Wave" dessert, 9/10

6th Course: "Cresting Wave" dessert, 9/10

France- Pavilion Ledoyen- ✪✪✪

Pavilion Ledoyen exterior

Pavilion Ledoyen exterior

PARIS, FRANCE

SERVICE: 9.0/10

FOOD: 8.5/10

PRICE PAID: $375 PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 7.0/10

FINAL SCORE: 8.0/10


About two hundred yards to the West of the Petit Palais along the river Seine in Paris sits Yannick Alleno's gorgeous Pavilion Ledoyen. 

Built as a garden mansion for Napoleon III more than 150 years ago, the pavillion was taken over in 2014 by the Alleno group and serves as a restaurant, event space, and bar. From the walking tour I took after the meal, it was clear that they were still growing into their space- much of it was built out and restored, but some parts were very much untouched since the Second Empire. 

The gilded entrance, like most of the rest of the structure, is beautifully restored. 

Pavilion Ledoyen Main Entrance

Pavilion Ledoyen Main Entrance

Let's kick things right off. To start, you're brought a small panorama of nature that happens to include small bites to eat. 

The ravioli is creamy and cumin-y, with a tropical dairy texture. The hibiscus and sweet onion is crunchy and the flavors reminds me of Hawaii- coconut oil, pineapple, etc. There are some pretty amazing dim sum and soy flavors at work too- a strong start. 9/10. I also really like the spongy platform that the course is served upon. 

1st Course: Ravioli & Hibiscus, 9/10

1st Course: Ravioli & Hibiscus, 9/10

A colorful offering of salted and unsalted butters, along with some pretty awesome breads.

Salted and unsalted butters

Salted and unsalted butters

Awesome, awesome breads

Awesome, awesome breads

Next up, Iberico ham with a rich sauce. The ham is well-salted, and the fermented gelee is a heavy idea so early on in this menu's story. 6/10. Good but mouth-burningly salty. 

2nd Course- Iberico ham with Fermented Gelee, 6/10

2nd Course- Iberico ham with Fermented Gelee, 6/10

"Twice-marinated anchovy" - Wonderful, crunchy texture, but the fried components (that tasted a lot like fried onions) layered another portion of butter and fat on an already rich start. 7/10. 

3rd Course: Twice-Marinated Anchovy, 7/10

3rd Course: Twice-Marinated Anchovy, 7/10

The pasta in this next dish is poured right on top of the remains of the previous- an interesting statement about refreshment and renewal. The sole has an almost sushi-fresh quality- cool and clean. 9/10. 

4th Course: Sole and Pasta, 9/10

4th Course: Sole and Pasta, 9/10

4A: Pasta in the renewed sauce  

4A: Pasta in the renewed sauce  

The fifth course was a lovely dish of panko and sauce- we were encouraged to dip the bread in the sauce for the maximum experience. 9/10. 

5th Course: Panko, 9/10

5th Course: Panko, 9/10

The lettuce serves as a gentle "border" and the sauce delivery is beautiful to watch. Check it out:

Next up: caviar with delicious, tiny, crunchy squares. As good as caviar gets. 10/10.

6th Course: Caviar and Crunchy Squares

6th Course: Caviar and Crunchy Squares

Next up was sole with green tomato sauce. The sole pairs with green peas fantastically well. Chanterelle mushrooms make this guy sing. 10/10.

7th Course: Sole and Green Tomato Sauce, 10/10

7th Course: Sole and Green Tomato Sauce, 10/10

Peas, mint, and langoustine next. An absurdly colorful dish with tons of flavor. 9/10.

8th Course: Peas & Langoustine, 9/10

8th Course: Peas & Langoustine, 9/10

I'm not sure if this is the official title, but the server described this as "lobster and cabbage bones." A beautiful design that looks like sculpture, bright and spongy lobster pairs well with crispy, crunchy cabbage. 8/10. 

9th Course: Lobster with "Cabbage Bones", 8/10

9th Course: Lobster with "Cabbage Bones", 8/10

During the course of this project, I've experienced a relatively wide array of Wagyu beef on a few continents. This was, hands-down, the absolute best. I want you to imagine beef the consistency of actual butter, but with pure grassfed flavors that give it an otherwordly aura. You can taste hay, the farm, fresh oats... It was quasi-religious. 10/10.

10th Course- Wagyu Beef, 10/10

10th Course- Wagyu Beef, 10/10

These dessert bites were served "on the beach," a nice, if confusing, statement in the narrative of the meal. He's wishing us a good vacation? We need a beach trip after all the food? Not quite sure what he's after here, but still delicious and gorgeous to look at, 9/10.

11th Course: Dessert on a Beach, 9/10

11th Course: Dessert on a Beach, 9/10

This was pitched as Calvados apple pie without the pie, which I'll admit I sort of understood. It was just simply-presented, awesome pie as far as I was concerned. You can see someone took the time to gently cut small lines into the surface before laying down some vanilla ice cream. 9/10.

12th Course: Calvados Apple Pie, 9/10

12th Course: Calvados Apple Pie, 9/10

Going tropical again, this time with a coconut and white biscuit dessert. Really strong coconut flavors speak nicely to some of the earlier courses. 9/10.

13th Course: Coconut with White Biscuit,  9/10

13th Course: Coconut with White Biscuit,  9/10

I was offensively stuffed at this point, but they managed to get me involved in this final round- beer pie and truffles, a classic and spectacular ending. Loved every part of it. Man was this thing a marathon. 10/10.

14th Course: Beer Pie with Guinness and Chocolate Truffles, 10/10

14th Course: Beer Pie with Guinness and Chocolate Truffles, 10/10

And, a final goodnight to this beautiful structure. Amazing meal, amazing service, truly worth the journey. 

France- Guy Savoy- ✪✪✪

Entering the French Mint, en route to Guy Savoy

Entering the French Mint, en route to Guy Savoy

PARIS, FRANCE

SERVICE: 9/10

FOOD: 8.5/10

PRICE PAID: $425 PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 7.0/10

FINAL SCORE: 8.0/10

Set in unreal surroundings- the French national mint- Guy Savoy's European branch puts on a hell of a show on the plate. The US version, by the way, is in Vegas. 

Come early, because you 1) have to get past a handful of guards with guns, and 2) you have to take a lot of steps to get there. Luckily, they left a lot of signs:

The restaurant is located in what used to be the office of the Mint's President. How subtle.

Guy Savoy (2 of 21).jpg

Guy Savoy offers two, similarly-priced menus: The Product Menu, and the Colors, Textures, and Savors menu, which is slightly larger. I opted for the CTS; a four-hour experience that was paced in a leisurely fashion. Service from Denis and Michel was extremely attentive and formal- to my far left in the dining room were some important elected officials, and the rest of the crowd glanced at their watches with a certain the-private-jet-is-idling-at-Charles-de-Gaulle-goddammit look to them. 

First bites were a torchon of foie gras with cold courgette soup. The torchon is extremely rich and meant to pair with the intro champagne- the culinary equivalent of a warm handshake. The soup is zesty and refreshing on a hot day, the culinary equivalent of nice air conditioning to accompany said handshake. Tiny crisp under the plate is playful and delicious. 8/10, good opener dish.

First bites: Torchon of Foie Gras

First bites: Torchon of Foie Gras

First Bites: Cold Courgette Soup

First Bites: Cold Courgette Soup

Another small intro bite- the small crisp under the main plate. 

First bites: Wheat crisp with Tomato and Pesto

First bites: Wheat crisp with Tomato and Pesto

The first dish is cucumbers- soft, with an almost waxy consistency. The tiny, delicately placed crumbs are soldered-on with a rich sauce that lends structure. Fun dish. 8/10.

1st Course: Cucumbers, 8/10

1st Course: Cucumbers, 8/10

This second dish really amped things up by a few notches. Caviar with courgette leaf crisps and egg custard. Cucumbers beneath followed by a larger ring of cucumber. 

2nd Course: Caviar, 10/10

2nd Course: Caviar, 10/10

Each egg was explosively fresh. This dish is totally transcendent- three different types of caviar that each work well together or alone. Outstanding presentation- 10/10. The crisps don't add much and represent the wrong season but I don't care.

 

For the third course, we switch gears into vegetables with peas & egg. Those two ingredients work terrifically, but this is a heavy dish. The egg had a jelly-fish-like appearance, and check out those colors! 8/10.

3rd Course: Peas & Egg, 8/10

3rd Course: Peas & Egg, 8/10

After an already filling setup into the main dishes, I have to be honest when I say that an enormous half-lobster was not what I expected next. And yet.

Chanterelles in the main body are a nice touch. The onions are soft and French-onion-soup-like in character and texture.

Have you ever bought a fresh-boiled lobster from a roadside stand, and tried to consume it standing up? It's messy. So was this, which was a weird experience in such a nice place. 7/10. I'm not saying I stood up while I ate it. 

4th Course: An Enormous Lobster, 7/10

4th Course: An Enormous Lobster, 7/10

This mussels dish was announced as the chef's specialty. As seafoody and ocean-y as it gets, like a delicious rich mud. 8/10.

5th Course: Mussels, 8/10

5th Course: Mussels, 8/10

Here's where we reach the height of richness- mushrooms, huge slices of black truffles, and Parmesan cheese gathered together in one soup. It comes with a mushroom brioche to go with- truly decadent; 9/10. 

6th Course: Mushroom & Truffle Soup, 9/10

6th Course: Mushroom & Truffle Soup, 9/10

Here come the Laguiole steak knives. This next course- a veal cutlet- is brought by the table so you can see it before they serve it. Cutlet, liver, and sweetbreads are a massive, filling finale of the main courses. 8/10

7th Course: Veal Cutlet, Liver, Sweetbreads, 8/10

7th Course: Veal Cutlet, Liver, Sweetbreads, 8/10

As a nice wind-down, some warm Burgundian cheese with an almost almond and chocolate flavor. The sandwich is crunchy and has a light flavor of watercress. 9/10. 

8th Course: Burgundian Cheese, 9/10

8th Course: Burgundian Cheese, 9/10

An extremely awesome marshmallow and meringue. Nothing to say but 10/10.

9th Course: Pre-dessert Marshmallow, 10/10

9th Course: Pre-dessert Marshmallow, 10/10

This dessert totally blew me away: dried, frozen, and fresh strawberries all together in a tart. Great combo of temps, flavors, textures. Super amazing dessert dish. 10/10.

10th Course: Strawberry tart, 10/10

10th Course: Strawberry tart, 10/10

"All-Black" chocolate dessert. With cardamom. 9/10.

11th Course: "All-Black" Chocolate & Cardamom, 9/10

11th Course: "All-Black" Chocolate & Cardamom, 9/10

Lastly, a choose your own adventure dessert cart. Cheesecake, melon sorbet, chocolate mousse. 9/10, great cart.

12th Course- Choose-Your-Own-Adventure Cart, 9/10

12th Course- Choose-Your-Own-Adventure Cart, 9/10

France- Le Meurice Alain Ducasse- ✪✪

Update- as of the 2017 book, Le Meurice Alain Ducasse is now 2-stars :( :(

PARIS, FRANCE

SERVICE: 8.0/10

FOOD: 7.0/10

PRICE PAID: $80 PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 8.0/10

FINAL SCORE: 7.5/10

Situated in the gorgeous Meurice hotel on Rue de Rivoli, Alain Ducasse's hotel restaurant has one of the most palatial surroundings imaginable. The restaurant serves breakfast out of what could only be described as a gold-leafed ballroom, complete with tall white marble fireplace, mirrors, paintings, chandeliers, and the whole nine yards. If an ensemble had leapt from the curtains and sang, "Be Our Guest," I wouldn't have even registered surprise. 

First Bites: Bread + Jam, 8/10

First Bites: Bread + Jam, 8/10

As with your traditional carb-heavy French breakfasts, we began with a tower-plate of bread. Pain au chocolat, croissants rolls, all paired up with just-made jams and confitures. Nicely presented and with beautiful flavors. 8/10.

Course 1: Tropical Fruit Plate, 8/10

Course 1: Tropical Fruit Plate, 8/10

Is this a beautiful, tropical fruit plate that appears to have been precisely and delicately cut by a trained hand? Yes, it is. Is it exceptionally different from a fruit plate one might get from, say, room service at a Hyatt Regency in Dallas? No, it is not. Still pretty good, though. 8/10. 

Course 2: Black Truffle Egg Benedict, 9/10

Course 2: Black Truffle Egg Benedict, 9/10

If you, for any reason at all, are trying to inflict a heart attack on yourself or a loved one, please by all means try this dish out. I'm not kidding when I infer that an entire stick of butter had to die to make this egg benedict. The truffle on top was just icing on the cake (haha get it? But yeah more butter). Truly, magnificently decadent, but please don't try this at home. This is a butter hurricane wrapped inside a fat tornado. I shall name it, "the ButterCane." 9/10. 

Course 3: Crêpe, 8/10

Course 3: Crêpe, 8/10

A small pile of crepes with chocolate and sugar. Simple and pleasurable. 8/10. 

Belgium- Hertog Jan- ✪✪✪

With an idyllic garden and gorgeous modern-architecture restaurant layout, Hertog Jan was one of my favorite visits in all of Europe. 

LOPPEM-ZEDELGEM (BRUGGE), BELGIUM

SERVICE: 6.5/10

FOOD: 8.5/10

PRICE PAID: $328 PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 7.5/10

FINAL SCORE: 7.5/10

Situated in a lush, green garden a few miles outside of Brugge, Hertog Jan is the masterwork of the Lebron James of the culinary world, Gert de Mengeleer. Gert is on an incredible roll- he achieved his third Michelin star at age 34, making him one of the youngest chefs in the world with that honor. Gert's motto is "driven by simplicity," and the menu is one of the purest product-driven presentations (i.e. fresh fruits, vegetables, and ingredients) I have ever seen. The garden (pictured above) is where most of the restaurant's inputs come from. 

In the summer, pre-dinner aperitifs start outside near the garden

In the summer, pre-dinner aperitifs start outside near the garden

Upon entering, you approach the hostess stand in a dark ceramic-brick lobby that feels like a nice spa. Surrounding you are books as well as take-home preparations of jam, sauces, and condiments branded by de Mangeleer. It's not an uncommon sight in some of these Three-Star restaurants, but this one takes it almost to gift-shop levels. We walked out past lovely rectangular artificial ponds to an absolutely stunning patio, greeted by the setting sun and a lovely glass of reasonably-priced champagne. While the views weren't as sweeping and magnificent as Hof Van Cleve, Hertog Jan takes full advantage of its setting. 

Service throughout was okay but not great, and in some cases not even good. As the first few precursor dishes wrapped up, we asked to stay on the patio for an extra moment to enjoy the sunset. The staff behaved as though this was the most toweringly ludicrous request one could possible level at them, and told us that the kitchen couldn't handle such a request. It does seem a little odd that the kitchen couldn't handle having their dishes walking an extra ten feet, but so be it. 

First Bites: Smoked Mackerel, 9/10

First Bites: Smoked Mackerel, 9/10

Charmingly smoking over a small bed of twigs, this delicate wrap of mackerel with a light pasty crust and a garnishment of flowers was a beautiful opening statement about the meal and the amazing things to come. The temperature was just-right, and the smokiness of the dish gave it a total-sensory experience. 9/10. 

First Bites: Tomato + Broth, 10/10

First Bites: Tomato + Broth, 10/10

A dish that impresses with its simplicity and obvious technical complexity; tomatoes stuffed with mozzarella had their insides carefully extracted and refined into a delicate broth. The effect of eating both together was that of an exquisite tomato soup. Creative, interesting, and a beautiful presentation. 10/10.

First Bites, Continued: Beef Cannellonis, 7/10

First Bites, Continued: Beef Cannellonis, 7/10

Another fantastically pretty presentation, this time of two small, crunchy cannellonis with Flemish beef and bright spice powder. Serving on a bed of plain white rice was shrewd, bringing out the colors of the beef and the spices. The flavors didn't quite match the brilliance of the visual presentation- it was a little plain, honestly- but still enjoyable. 7/10.

First Bites, Continued: Goose Liver + Raspberry, 10/10

First Bites, Continued: Goose Liver + Raspberry, 10/10

Though the chef frequently espouses his simplicity-driven cooking style, it was clear to me that this dish was a fun play on the potential of complexity- a beautiful medley of goose liver, raspberry, and lychee practically exploded with flavor. The lychee was served ice-cold, which played off the warm goose liver and the electric-zing of the raspberry dust. A truly memorable dish. 10/10. 

  First Bites, Continued: Potato + Lychee, 6/10

  First Bites, Continued: Potato + Lychee, 6/10

While the presentation was bright and luscious the flavors were actually fairly bland on this potato-based dish. Working with starches is always risky, and even with a nice blend of sea salt and oil the staid texture overwhelm the core idea of the dish. 6/10.

Course 1: Potato Soup + Coffee, 9/10

Course 1: Potato Soup + Coffee, 9/10

This next potato dish made a ton more sense- a dense, rich plate of cream of potato, shaved cheese, and coffee grounds. Check out the dazzling colors and patterns of the ceramic- this was carefully thought through. Completely delicious 9/10. 

Course 2: Sea Bass, 9/10

Course 2: Sea Bass, 9/10

A traditional Peruvian presentation- this dish was straightforward, light, and delicate. The fish felt a bit confined in a jail of vegetables visually, but a small note on such a delicious fish. 9/10. 

Course 3: "A Walk in the Garden," 9/10

Course 3: "A Walk in the Garden," 9/10

A dish that was decadent in its pure, crispy, practically ringing freshness- the Walk in the Garden is an always-changing dish that reflects the most-currently-available products from the garden outside. An impossibly dense collection of colors and vegetable textures made this feel more Jungle than Garden; this dish is the pinnacle of showing what the chef's supply chain can do. 9/10. 

Course 4: Beet + Langoustine, 9/10

Course 4: Beet + Langoustine, 9/10

Langoustine and beet with a stock of langoustine- the colors flowed nicely, and played well against the greenery of the previous dish to provide a nice contrast. 9/10.

Course 5: Eel, 8/10

Course 5: Eel, 8/10

This meticulously-folded preparation of eel with sauce was a beautiful penultimate dish- lush sea flavors played well with the crunchy, starchy tri-fold vegetables. 8/10.

Course 6: Wagyu Beef, 9/10

Course 6: Wagyu Beef, 9/10

Incredibly tender and hidden under layers of mushrooms, this was one of my favorite Wagyu preparations of all time. 9/10

Course 7: Vegetables + Cream, 8/10

Course 7: Vegetables + Cream, 8/10

Lastly, a beautiful baked tart with surprisingly sweet vegetable cream. Small green shoots remind us of the heavy vegetable-driven meal we've just enjoyed. A beautiful concluding statement. 8/10.

Belgium- Hof Van Cleve- ✪✪✪

Perched on a hilltop surrounded by idyllic Belgian countryside, renowned Flemish chef Peter Goossens has taken a gorgeous farmhouse and made it into a 40-seat restaurant of truly global quality.

Hof Van Cleve's View

Hof Van Cleve's View

KRUISHOUTEM, BELGIUM

SERVICE: 8.5/10

FOOD: 9.0/10

PRICE PAID: $456 PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 7.5/10

FINAL SCORE: 8.5/10

 

Taking full advantage of their sweeping views and gorgeous physical layout, the wait staff greeted my late self just off a red-eye flight with courtesy and even hauled my ridiculously heavy carry-on bag into storage with enthusiasm bordering upon glee. I was invited onto this sun-drenched patio deck to enjoy an aperitif and the first few preview-courses as a means of easing into the meal. 

The deck was full of beautifully cushioned, hand-carved wooden chairs and tables. Carefully-laid brick underneath and manicured hedges and greenery surrounded me, emphasizing the glorious peak-summer day of my visit. In the far distance, silent wind turbines wound on and trees swayed in the breeze along small rivers. The only sound audible was the occasional chatter of other guests, but mostly we sat silently and enjoyed the perfection of the moment. A truly impeccable space. 

Service was extremely formal- no personal questions, not much eye contact, minimal hanging around at all times. With the many awkward arm bumps and hesitant command of English, I got the sense that much of the younger staff was here on some form of a summer internship. The average age for the service couldn’t have been more than 25.

First Bites: Strawberries + Cream, 9/19

First Bites: Strawberries + Cream, 9/19

First out was a small strawberry-and-cream dish that tasted like a fantastic smoothie. Creamy, light, and refreshing- perfect for the hot weather. 9/10.

First Bites, Continued: Seafood Crisps, 7/10

First Bites, Continued: Seafood Crisps, 7/10

Next up, a small set of seafood crisps- one with crispy-fresh, crunchy cucumber and herring, the other with shrimp. Each corner of the dish was immaculately presented, and you can tell right off the bat that the kitchen is taking these dishes seriously. 7/10, a bit greasy and actually a small challenge to eat, since the crisps disintegrated immediately.

Course 1: Herring + Lettuce, 10/10

Course 1: Herring + Lettuce, 10/10

Then, a bowl of herring with young lettuce- the colors were fantastic, and the plate selection was perfect here- salty herring playing off against fresh vegetables in a unique and fun way. 10/10.

Course 2: Beet Root + Liver, 10/10

Course 2: Beet Root + Liver, 10/10

Sadly, the last dish served on the terrace- a beautiful compilation of beet root, chicken liver, wheat block, and gelee. First, just look at the colors and the structure of this dish. Disassembled but still in a story that made sense. Super creative, I just love the look. 

The flavors were all correct as well- healthy lean beets go nicely with evil, rich liver, and the salty gelee sat somewhere in the middle. I can’t help but say this was another 10/10.

Arriving into the main restaurant in a seat towards the back corner closest to the kitchen, I was struck by the small size and intimacy of the place. In two medium-sized rooms there were no more than 12 tables in total, giving the place a very special, romantic feel. A youngish family of four Germans sat nearby, along with several loud, obnoxious French ladies who didn’t understand how or why one should disarm the ringer on one’s smartphone while dining out. A table of uncomfortable-looking dudes in short-sleeved button-ups stared awkwardly as if misdirected to the place while en route to the sports pub, and a couple on anniversary kept eyeing the menu prices nervously.

Course 3: Squid + Iberico Ham, 9/10

Course 3: Squid + Iberico Ham, 9/10

The first dish to arrive at the restaurant seat was a lovely, playful combination of squid, iberico ham, and squid stock. The squid was so fresh it almost resembled pasta in texture, and the squid’s sea-freshness was almost squeaky to chew, and went well with the salty iberico ham. 9/10. 

Course 4: Ponzu + Langoustine, 9/10 

Course 4: Ponzu + Langoustine, 9/10 

Check out this presentation of ponzu, langoustine, and radish. If it wasn’t clear that the kitchen was working their faces off up to this point, it should be now. Each individually-sliced radish appears precision-cut, and the “roof” it forms on the top of the dish balances out the flavors with that earthy radish flavor. The ponzu has rich flavors of banana, backed up by a nice coriander flavor. Very impressive dish. 9/10, only because it’s a little too filling.

Course 5: Lobster + Green Peas, 10/10

Course 5: Lobster + Green Peas, 10/10

Next, a dish that brought in the Oosterschelde Lobster (a lobster from the Netherlands' Eastern Scheldt in the North Sea, they are unique for their black-blue shells and turn bright red when cooked as you can see). The preparation included some snappingly fresh spring peas that complimented the shellfish perfectly. Some hearty green beans and lovely shies leaf rounded the dish out- a spectacular 10/10.

Course 6: Sea Bass + Broccoli, 8/10

Course 6: Sea Bass + Broccoli, 8/10

The sea bass dish was light, buttery, and paired perfectly with the crunchy, purposefully-undercooked broccoli. As the meal wore on, the filling dishes started to get a little overwhelming. 8/10. 

Course 7: Farm Chicken + Zucchini, 8/10

Course 7: Farm Chicken + Zucchini, 8/10

A fantastic take on a traditional roast chicken with artichoke, m'hamsa, and zucchini. The restaurant was clearly making the most of the summer vegetables available to them; lovely eggplant flavors throughout but another thick, buttery broth to fill thy cup o'er. 8/10.

Course 8: Pigeon, 9/10

Course 8: Pigeon, 9/10

An interesting if cruel final main dish- young pigeon served Anjou-style with sage, cauliflower, and burned onion. Small flowers, a foamy vegetable base, and rich pigeon sauce served as the final slam-dunk in a long and worthy meal. I'll be honest, I was beyond stuffed at this point. 9/10.

Course 9: Strawberry, 10/10

Course 9: Strawberry, 10/10

In a nice change of pace, a relatively light and fruity strawberry-based dessert with basil, lemon, and yogurt flavors. A thin strawberry broth backed it up, and I'd have to call this the close to perfect dessert. 10/10, a fantastic close to a fantastic meal. 

USA- The French Laundry- ✪✪✪

French Laundry Exterior

French Laundry Exterior

NAPA, CA, USA

SERVICE: 7.5/10

FOOD: 9.0/10

PRICE PAID: $420 PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 7.0/10

FINAL SCORE: 8.0/10

Thomas Keller's West Coast headquarters has a vertically-integrated farm that supplies fresh produce, and when I visited in mid-May 2015 they were operating out of a temporary kitchen. The kitchen was set up in what used to be a gorgeous, well-manicured garden that I hope some day returns.

First Bites: Salmon Ice Cream, 8/10

First Bites: Salmon Ice Cream, 8/10

A fun old standby that I have seen before at Per Se, the softness of the Scottish salmon plays off nicely against the crunchy cone. 8/10. The herbs give a bright, fresh taste. 

First Bites Part 2: Gougère Cheese Balls, 8/10

First Bites Part 2: Gougère Cheese Balls, 8/10

Another replay from Per Se, these are pretty much the best cheesy poofs in the world. 8/10.

Course 1: "Oysters + Pearls," 9/10

Course 1: "Oysters + Pearls," 9/10

I'm starting to notice a pattern here- this completely outstanding dish that I continue to love every part of was also a holdover from Per Se. I guess there aren't too many folks who will be disappointed by the repetition of trying both restaurants in the same 6-week period. Two perfect oysters in a cream broth are matched up with a generous dab of Osetra-grade caviar, which evokes sensations of the sea and a multitude of earth-toned flavors. A decadent, delightful dish. 9/10.

Course 2: Fennel Salad, 9/10

Course 2: Fennel Salad, 9/10

The fennel salad came with preserved green strawberries and rhubarb- one of my favorite combinations in the world- and the combo works out perfectly. The greens are incredibly fresh, and smelled like that first moment you walk into a greengrocers who is stocking a fresh delivery. 9/10.

Course 3: Smoked Sturgeon, 9/10

Course 3: Smoked Sturgeon, 9/10

A bit on the heavy, buttery side, this small flank of sturgeon reeks of smoke that comes through well because the fish is so fresh and mild. 9/10.

Though I won't often make a big deal of sides, Thomas Keller has a great success here with his East- and West-coast butters, star of sea salts, and phenomenal fresh-baked breads. I enjoyed way more of these than I think you're supposed to in one sitting. 9/10.

 

French Laundry (11 of 25)-2.jpg
Course 4; Duck + Cherries, 9/10

Course 4; Duck + Cherries, 9/10

Another out-of-the-park home run as far as pairings go- duck and cherries are another absolutely classic match that are executed close to perfectly by the French Laundry. The interplay of corn, cherry, and duck is totally stellar. 9/10.

Course 5: Wagyu Beef, 8/10

Course 5: Wagyu Beef, 8/10

This made for an almost-perfect keystone dish. The A5 Wagyu is as rich and marble-y as one could ask for, but the chefs decided to coat it in an offensively thick layer of salt. I had to scrape most of it off with my fork, because before doing so it virtually bit my tongue. After removing the salt, it is close to perfect. 8/10

Course 6: Cheese + Mulberries, 8/10

Course 6: Cheese + Mulberries, 8/10

A simple, fresh cheese played off fantastically against the mulberries, which I'll admit I've never had before. 8/10.

Course 7: Strawberry Tart, 9/10

Course 7: Strawberry Tart, 9/10

The assembly and presentation was what really made this dish sing- A strawberry tart with saffron and pineapple blossom guava stems. There were also tiny cubes of strawberry gelatin throughout, and the small stems made for an amazing texture. The thyme also conveyed a tea-like taste that I enjoyed. 9/10.

Course 9: Buttermilk Ice Cream, 9/10

Course 9: Buttermilk Ice Cream, 9/10

This buttermilk ice cream came with a small tres leches cake. There is a black pepper/jam kick that pairs with the buttermilk in a truly unique way. 9/10.

Course 10: Pretzels + Chocolate, 8/10

Course 10: Pretzels + Chocolate, 8/10

Yet another throwback to Per Se, a rod of chocolate with a creamy center is married up to some salted pretzel bits. A reliable crowd-pleaser. 8/10.

Course 11: Handmade Chocolates, 8/10

Course 11: Handmade Chocolates, 8/10

As the meal concluded, we were offered a selection of hand-made chocolates from a wonderful presentation case that showcased each chocolate, organized by color. The case was what made this for me- someone hand-built a display for these chocolates! 8/10.

Course 12: "Coffee + Donuts," 9/10

Course 12: "Coffee + Donuts," 9/10

French Laundry (23 of 25)-2.jpg

Yet another classic Keller dish, the "coffee" is actually coffee-flavored ice cream with macarons. Perfectly tasty. 9/10.

USA- Grace- NOW CLOSED

Grace Interior

Grace Interior

Update: after a conflict with his owner, Chef Curtis Duffy closed Grace restaurant in late 2017. He is planning to re-open a restaurant in Chicago, and I’m happy to have a reason to go back!

CHICAGO, IL, USA

SERVICE: 9.0/10

FOOD: 8.5/10

PRICE PAID: $235 PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 8.5/10

FINAL SCORE: 9/10

A newcomer to the three-star ranking, Curtis Duffy's Grace restaurant is an up-and-coming, adventurous restaurant that takes an innovative approach to fine cuisine. There is a real focus on service, presentation, and detailed work at every step of the meal- the waiters appear practically choreographed in their movements- that makes the evening incredibly special. 

First Bites: Fava Bean Cracker + 4 Small Bites, 9/10

First Bites: Fava Bean Cracker + 4 Small Bites, 9/10

We start out with a super creative presentation- four small bites on a fava bean cracker, all served on an enormous log. Preserved Meyer lemon and lemon balm were sprinkled throughout, and each bite had a different character- salty, sweet, citrus, etc. 9/10.

Course 1: Trout + Caviar, 9/10

Course 1: Trout + Caviar, 9/10

Another exceptionally clever presentation- poached trout with Osetra-grade caviar from Germany, served in a yogurt cup with foil lid. The lid has saffron and uzu puree on the underside that we were encouraged to scrape off, and there was a pool of smoke inside as well. The smoke seeps into the salmon for a classic taste, and there are tiny Hon Shimeji mushrooms that are firm, crisp, and tiny. 9/10.

Course 3: Crab + Roe on "Ice," 9/10

Course 3: Crab + Roe on "Ice," 9/10

If you're starting to get the feeling that super-creative presentations are Grace's thing, then you're in the same boat I was in. Danish trout roe and crab with togarashi spice are carefully placed on a sharp, blade-like "ice" layer of cooked sugar. The sweet, candied sugar brings out the crisp flavors of the crab and vegetables, and the unique spice is a perfect match-up. The roe pops in your mouth- refreshing like a summer salad. 9/10.

Course 4: Oysters + Salad, 7/10

Course 4: Oysters + Salad, 7/10

Long Island oysters with herbs and seaweed, white grapefruit, and chewy maitake mushrooms were presented next. The flavor in the oysters themselves I would label as "movie popcorn," and this was a busy dish with tons of flavors and textures. Perhaps even a little too much going on. 7/10.

Course 5: Rabbit + Cannellini, 8/10

Course 5: Rabbit + Cannellini, 8/10

We got to experience the grilled rabbit, prepared in confit style, with cannellini beans. The rabbit was very well cooked, but a touch dry. 8/10.

Course 6: Braised Pork, 8/10

Course 6: Braised Pork, 8/10

An interesting take on a classic dish- this pork was braised and matched up with a port wine reduction and a chicharron of fried pork. The crispy, crunchy rinds pair perfectly with the pork, which falls apart under the fork. The main protein is rich, and stands up to the other ingredients- like cauliflower- well. 8/10

Course 7: Wagyu Beef, 9/10

Course 7: Wagyu Beef, 9/10

Served as a "deconstructed spring roll," this herb-driven dish came with a broth of Tom Yum and caramelized peanuts. True to A5 Wagyu form, this beef was well-marbled and exceptionally rich. The presentation was colorful and playful, with crunchy veggie chips to try to offset some of the richness of the dish. I really enjoyed this one- a great capstone course. 9/10.

Course 8: Ice Cream, 8/10

Course 8: Ice Cream, 8/10

At the beginning of the meal, we got asked whether we prefer chocolate or vanilla- and this was the payoff. Bite-sized ice cream cones of almost-butter-rich ice cream were a great follow-up to the Wagyu. 8/10.

Course 9: Frozen Pear, 9/10

Course 9: Frozen Pear, 9/10

Frozen Pear, Post-Opening

Frozen Pear, Post-Opening

Another unbelievably creative execution- a hollow sphere made of frozen pear juice, with blond brownie holding everything together at the base. The soft, almost gummy brownie is a great match for the pear. 9/10.

Course 10: Panna Cotta, 8/10

Course 10: Panna Cotta, 8/10

A beautiful dish of panna cotta and green strawberries. 8/10.

Final Bites: Cocoa Butter Sphere, 6/10

Final Bites: Cocoa Butter Sphere, 6/10

The final dish left a small sour note on my palate- a cocoa butter sphere had an extremely strong lemon tea inside that didn't agree with me- tasted somehow rusty and oxidized. 6/10. 

Japan- Sushi Dai- No Stars

Though I do not wish to distract myself from my goal of visiting every Michelin 3-star restaurant, I was so moved by an experience I had in Tokyo that I felt I had to share. A very common tourist destination is the Tsu-jiki fish market, which opens at 5AM (perfect for jet-lagged travellers, who are up anyway). Right nearby is the tiny, family-owned Sushi Dai. As you can see, it gets crazy packed.

Sushi Dai Interior

Sushi Dai Interior

TOKYO, JAPAN

SERVICE: 3.0/10

FOOD: 10.0/10

PRICE PAID: $35 PP 

VALUE/MONEY: 10.0/10

FINAL SCORE: 8.0/10

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The restaurant is literally just across the street from the fish market, and all of their supplies are brought in from said market the day-of. 

 

I give them such a low service rating not necessarily for the in-restaurant experience, but for the 3+ hour wait that everyone has to slog through at 4'o'clock in the morning. This isn't totally their fault, but it certainly makes for a rough start to your day. I got in line around 3:30AM and was served sushi around 6:30AM. Word to the wise- there's really no way around the long line since they open at 5 and the line starts forming at 3, so bring fun people. 

1st Round: Green Tea, 5/10

1st Round: Green Tea, 5/10

Some pretty mediocre green tea that appeared to originate from dry powder and a microwave. 5/10.

Course 1: Miso Soup, 8/10

Course 1: Miso Soup, 8/10

Next up was some clearly homemade and exceptionally hearty miso soup. This was one of the better miso soups I have ever had, and it was an especially welcome treat after the long, cold wait outside. 8/10.

Course 2: Egg Cake, 9/10

Course 2: Egg Cake, 9/10

Next was a slice of what can only be called egg cake. It was warm, rich, and extremely delicious. A bit like quiche. 9/10.

Course 3: Tuna, 10/10

Course 3: Tuna, 10/10

Woah. At this point, I was really getting excited, because while it wasn't artfully presented, this tuna was mind-blowingly good. A small cut of super-fresh tuna that was plucked from the market across the street that very morning, this was some of the freshest and best fish I've ever seen. 10/10.

Course 4: Red Snapper, 10/10

Course 4: Red Snapper, 10/10

The bright colors on this fish were incredible. The chef cautioned me not to use any sauce on this one, which was a great idea because it stood on its own perfectly. I was totally in awe of the rich freshness from this fish. 10/10.

Course 5: Sea Urchin, 8/10

Course 5: Sea Urchin, 8/10

With the totally excessive richness of ground-up caviar, this bite tasted like what I imagine eating a handful of pure, decadent fat tastes like. I'm always a fan of sea urchin, and this one was no disappointment. 8/10.

Course 6: Horse Mackerel, 8/10

Course 6: Horse Mackerel, 8/10

The colors on this fish were stunning- an interesting, flat cut with a small bundle of ginger and herbs on top. The ginger brought out the freshness in the fish, but it was a tad too strong. 8/10.

Course 7: Red Clam, 7/10

Course 7: Red Clam, 7/10

The clam was fresh and fibrous, and had an almost earthy taste. 7/10.

Course 8: Blue Fin Tuna

Course 8: Blue Fin Tuna

This blue fin tuna was marinated to bring out that unbelievable color, but the beautiful cross-striping gave this an amazing appearance to go with the amazing taste. 9/10.

Course 9: Sweet Shrimp, 10/10

Course 9: Sweet Shrimp, 10/10

I'm running out of hyperbole, but... this sweet shrimp was truly incredible; strong flavors of papaya and tropical fruit accentuated by a light dousing of soy sauce. 10/10.

Course 10: Saba, 8/10

Course 10: Saba, 8/10

With a topping of ginger and herbs, this fish (even though raw) exhibited a smoky, roasted flavor that I loved. 8/10.

Course 11: Maki Rolls, 8/10

Course 11: Maki Rolls, 8/10

These four small rolls include two veggie rolls- cucumber- and two tuna rolls. When I'm in the states, I normally eat rolls like this, and these shattered all expectations for how delicious vegetables, rice, and seaweed paper can be. 8/10.

Course 12: Squid, 7/10

Course 12: Squid, 7/10

Only in season for two or three months of the year around mid-Spring, the squid is prepared with squid eggs inside. Though not normally a big squid fan, it was rubbery and fun to eat. 7/10.

Course 13: Fatty Tuna, 10/10

Course 13: Fatty Tuna, 10/10

For your final course, you get to pick from anything off the Sushi Dai menu. My heartfelt recommendation is the Otoro- fatty tuna. If eating this fish won't convert you to sushi as an art form, then nothing will. This was the most amazing, fresh, rich fish I have ever had in my life, and it was really this individual course that inspired me to break rank from the 3-star restaurants to write about my experience. The extremely reasonable $35 Omakase (chef's choice) menu is worth it for this one bite alone. 10/10.

Japan- Mizutani- ✪✪

TOKYO, JAPAN

SERVICE: 7.5/10

FOOD: 8.0/10

PRICE PAID: $160 PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 6.0/10

FINAL SCORE: 7.0/10

Hachiro Mizutani is in his mid-60s, and by the looks of things seems to be entering his prime years. Finding his restaurant was no small feat (I had to ask an incredibly nice woman who worked in a store across the street, who vaguely pointed me at his building) and I'll issue the warning to anyone following in my footsteps- please use the elevator. The steps, especially slicked with rain, are essentially a tourist death trap, and I almost broke my neck in Ginza. 

You enter a tiny alcove space (not visible in the photo above, because in order to take this photo you have to occupy the entire space yourself) that is clean, neat, and ordered. The dining room occupies an impressive amount of the total overall space- you can catch glimpses of the stainless steel support equipment in the background (to the left and out of frame in the above), along with a sense of several invisible beings working hard behind the curtain.

Chef Mizutani himself and an understudy who appeared roughly 15 years old occupy the main sushi preparation area. As I sat and began my 35-minute lunch next to a few locals and tourists, a ballet of movements and orders began taking shape. The 15-year-old (we'll call him the sous chef, because I never caught his name) would begin washing the shrimp, and minutes later progress the shrimp into his boss' hands for final assembly. Wide-eyed and clearly excited about his job, the sous chef was extremely helpful with the English translations. "Needlefish," "Fatty tuna," etc. 

The meal was extremely traditional- roughly 15 courses of extremely fresh fish- anchovy, red clam, saba, and tuna with the signature hand-rolled rice, hand-dabbed wasabi, and minimalist plating.

What really struck me about the experience was the great deal of solemnity in the space. Mizutani would utter a word, just above a whisper- "wasabi," or, "drinks," and the appropriate team would give a hearty, "hai!" and fulfill the order. It wasn't quite militaristic- no one seemed marshaled or yoked- but combined with the musicless quiet of the 9th floor location, it was more a feeling of watching a master librarian at work. 

Mizutani seemed a very traditional man- at one point, he asked the two teenage girls sitting across from me to put their iPhones down and start paying attention to their experience- and was fully engrossed in his work. He would uncover and bring to his cutting board a massive rectangular slice of tuna as big as a nightstick, carefully cut a generous diagonal slice, and then leave it off to the side for the sous chef to return. Not particularly exceptional as an individual act, but he repeated almost precisely the same gesture every time he built that dish. 

You probably noticed I wasn't allowed to take photos- and to be quite honest, this definitely was not the best fish I had in Tokyo. While fresh and clearly bought from the Tsu-jiki market very recently, it lacked the powerful depth of flavors and colors I had seen elsewhere. This was certainly a good restaurant experience to chalk up, but I won't be back.

Japan- Chihana- NOW CLOSED

Update: On May 12th, 2018, Chihana caught fire as an employee was firing up a burner. Very sad that one of my all-time favorites is now closed, likely forever. I’ll stay tuned in case they rebuild!

The name means something close to "1,000 blossoms," and tucked into the dense and romantic Gion district of Kyoto is this tiny gem of a kaiseki restaurant. The cuisine style originated hundreds of years ago in Japan as a style of coursed menu for nobility, and persists today in many excellent restaurants in Kyoto and elsewhere.

Chihana Main Entrance

Chihana Main Entrance

KYOTO, JAPAN

SERVICE: 8.0/10

FOOD: 8.0/10

PRICE PAID: $245 PP (LIST PRICE- PRE-CHALLENGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 7.0/10

FINAL SCORE: 7.5/10

A quick heads up to those visiting- give yourself an extra 15 minutes to find the place. Tucked way down a twisting alley that looks like it leads nowhere, GPS will also actively obstruct your journey by taking you to the back entrance which isn't open for guests. 

The Main Restaurant Seating Area

The Main Restaurant Seating Area

Chef Nagata

Chef Nagata

You enter a blond-wood bar with dozens of small, colorful ceramic cups and plates arranged carefully behind the chef's counter. Behind the curtain to the right is a packed kitchen with an unknown number of scurrying assistants who duck in and out. There are only eight seats with a few small private rooms behind us that were unoccupied, so the evening is incredibly intimate and quiet. Chef Nagata rolls in and out of the back room to quietly chat with guests. His English was pretty basic, but he seemed to care deeply that I was enjoying myself.

1st Course: Strawberry + Broccoli + Scallop, 10/10

1st Course: Strawberry + Broccoli + Scallop, 10/10

To kick things off, the chef began with a truly outstanding combination of cooked strawberry, broccoli, and hot scallops. The strawberries and greens were cold, creating a wonderful balance of colors, flavors, textures, and temperatures. The briny-ness of the scallops met with the sweet of the strawberry and the fibrousness of the greens; this is by far the best individual course I have had on my adventure thus far. 10/10.

2nd Course: White Fish + Spring Onion, 8/10

2nd Course: White Fish + Spring Onion, 8/10

A savory mix of warm fish proteins, hard veggies, and a sprinkling of strongly-flavored spring onions gave this dish a hearty feel. 8/10.

3rd Course: Vegetable Tempura, 8/10

3rd Course: Vegetable Tempura, 8/10

A massive and filling portion of fiddlehead fern and bamboo shoot tempura, served with a touch of salt and a fresh lemon to taste. Great texture and perfectly cooked, but took me about 10 minutes to get through. 8/10.

4th Course: Onion Soup, 7/10

4th Course: Onion Soup, 7/10

Next came a warm soup of onion slices and a doughy, spongy substances that tasted like fish cake. The overall dish made sense but it was on the bland side- the onions were crisp and a little young, and the doughy substance made for a nice pair with the vegetable. The ceramic bowl's colors went along perfectly- in most cases, you can see that the chef's carefully selected the dishware for that particular course. 7/10.

5th Course: Greens + Fish, 8/10

5th Course: Greens + Fish, 8/10

Thus began the dishes that were set to challenge my western palate. Served cold, this plate of greens with cooked fish and a mustardy sauce throughout was a fun little dance of textures. The consistent, cold temperature challenged my opinion of high-end fish. 8/10.

6th Course: White Fish + Asparagus, 6/10

6th Course: White Fish + Asparagus, 6/10

With what could only be described as a heapin' helpin' of loosely-bound fish, this dish was a tough one for me. Combining the huge portion and the repetitive fish-and-greens combo, I only made it through halfway through this course before giving up. 6/10.

7th Course: Seaweed + Bamboo Shoot Soup, 8/10

7th Course: Seaweed + Bamboo Shoot Soup, 8/10

The sprig of herb you see front and center is only a brief flavoring gesture- it was removed right after the dish was placed in front of me. This was a subtle dish, with the fibrous bamboo shoots playing nicely off the sweet, soft seaweed and the herbaceous broth. A fun dish that made sense to me. 8/10.

8th Course: Raw Fish, 8/10

8th Course: Raw Fish, 8/10

Some interesting condiments I had never experienced before- the black sticks in the upper right of the photo were dry seaweed, and I was encouraged to use wasabi, horseradish, and soy sauce combinations to find my own optimal grouping. Effectively, the un-named, fresh fish was a platform for different combinations of salty flavors. Another fun dish, 8/10.

9th Course: 5-Dish Combo, 9/10

9th Course: 5-Dish Combo, 9/10

(Sorry for the blurry photo! Learning curve and all that...) From left to right: bean paste, ("eat this one fast!" was the instruction), fried veggie chips, squid paste, fish paste, and a veggie mix. The idea here was to mix and match very different flavor profiles and preparation ideas- each of these felt like they were made by a different chef. The squid paste wasn't quite to my liking, but the other four dishes formed a spectacular harmony of tastes. 9/10.

10th Course: Red Snapper, 9/10

10th Course: Red Snapper, 9/10

Easily one of the freshest, best fish dishes I have ever had. The lemon and salt re-appear for flavoring, but they weren't necessary since the fish itself was the must succulent and rich I have ever experienced. 9/10.

11th Course: Bean Curd Soup, 8/10

11th Course: Bean Curd Soup, 8/10

Look how well the colors turn out in this dish- it almost looks like a cheddar beer soup. Bean curds aren't usually my preferred ingredient, but this course managed to change my mind a little. The curds were fresh and tasted like a rich bread, the perennially super-fresh veggies gave the dish depth. 8/10.

12th Course: Pine Nuts + Whole Fish + Beans, 8/10

12th Course: Pine Nuts + Whole Fish + Beans, 8/10

Very similar to a dish I had earlier enjoyed at Hyotei, this dish was an interesting combo of large, hard, lima bean-like vegetables with pine nuts and full sardines, eyes and all. Though I am proudly up for a challenge, this specific dish definitely pushed me- I feel like they're looking at me. I got over it and enjoyed the crunchy bones up against the hard, rich beans. 8/10.

13th Course: Rice + Herbs, 7/10

13th Course: Rice + Herbs, 7/10

Things went off the rails for me at this point. This was such an enormous, heavy portion of rice with such a liberal and substantial heap of herbs that I had to give up 1/3rd of the way through. Though certainly tasty, the dish felt mis-placed in the order of the meal. 7/10.

14th Course: Orange Juice, 7/10

14th Course: Orange Juice, 7/10

And then, leading up to dessert was... A glass of orange juice. The orange juice had a spritz of apple, giving it a bright and fruity taste. But, I mean, come on. It's just orange juice. I'd like to fully own that this might be my Western cuisine bias, but especially after how large and heavy the final courses were, this felt like a letdown. 7/10.