PERL, GERMANY (FAR WEST, NEAR LUXUMBOURG), APRIL 2017

SERVICE: 8.5/10

FOOD: 8.5/10

PRICE PAID: $190PP (INCL. WATER, TAX, AND WINE CORKAGE)

VALUE/MONEY: 9.0/10

FINAL RATING: 9.0/10

One of many understudies of Harald Wolhfahrt’s, Christian Bau was sous-chef at Schwarzwaldstube in the mid-90s. In 1998, he founded Victor’s Fine Dining by Christian Bau, opening in the Berg Castle after restoring it beautifully. He won his first star the year he opened, his second the year after, and by 2005 had this third. He has hung onto them ever since; 12 years as of my visit!

The lordly “Mountain” castle sits directly and somewhat incongruously next to a cheesy glass casino, which was definitely not what I expected. We are warmly welcomed in, offered to sit in what used to be the Chapel and looks like it took a hit of Las Vegas during the renovation (the suede couches were an interesting choice).

The dining room was considerably more staid and charming - wood paneling abounded, with lots of cozy and classic touches, as well as great lighting and art from around the world.

First bites are brought out on two plates, 8/10 overall:

• On the left, a tiny “burger” that is both sugary and tastes like rich foie; a tapioca chip with shrimps that is heavy with sesame seed oil and not well-balanced, and lastly a rather plain sesame chip with mushrooms. 7/10.

• On the right, an exceptionally rich cucumber dish, almost what you’d get if you blended cukes with a dish of sour cream. The fat overpowers the cucumber’s acid a bit. 7/10.

Next, a delightfully crisp and fresh dish of smoked sardines, light potato broth, and red tomato sorbet. Small beads of green vegetable oil crowd the surface, and the sorbet in the middle is ice cold, making this dish extra zingy. Perfectly in balance with the oily sardine fish. 9/10.

Next, a panoply of bread is brought in small geometric containers. We are spoilt for choice with Sunflower Seed Bread, Crusty Bread, olive oil, and butter. 8/10.

Continuing the first bites - salmon with daikon and avocado in a cool broth. Little green citrus bubbles pop attractively. The salmon is fatty and extremely fresh. 8/10.

Even more amuse-bouche arrives next. A complicated mishmash of egg, lobster, corn, goose liver, and mushroom with perhaps one of the richest and most satisfying miso broths I have ever had. The egg cream at the base is rich, and contrasts nicely with the crisp crunchy vegetable textures. 9/10.

Finally, we begin the menu itself with a course titled “Japanese Sea” - sashimi of hamachi marinated and combined with seaweed, oyster, cucumber, and daikon radish yields lots of salty ocean flavors. A lovely fresh sheen to the rich fatty Japanese mackerel, and the texture is quite creamy and soft. 8/10.

Next up, a preparation of “the back of the langoustine” with a roe the restaurant calls “false sushi,” (no explanation given) with gorgeous flowers and heavy Thai flavors. The langoustine is sweet and fresh, and this continues the theme of plates with just a shitload going on. 8/10.

Another dish, another gorgeous traffic jam of complicated flavors that works almost perfectly together. Atlantic turbot with peas in a shiso dressing, morel mushrooms, peas, and a yellow wine broth. Everything tastes light, fresh, and balanced in the way a dense orchestra playing on perfect pitch is aligned. No other way to describe it. 9/10.

Pigeon! This excellent if graphically presented dish included purple curry, Chinese broccoli, palm hearts, and pigeon jus with vinegar. Succulent and perfectly prepared, the purple curry is an excellent - if strongly scented - choice.

As a generous gesture from the house, we are offered a small pour of some pretty exceptional 2000 Clos de L'Église from Pomerol - rich dark fruits with notes of black tea and earth; a prototypical well-aged Bordeaux. It pairs perfectly with both the pigeon as well as the bonus short rib course they granted us next (again, very generously).

As a gift from the house, we are offered to try the optional short rib main course. Smoked eggplant with miso, bell pepper, and black garlic is a straight-up 10/10, with perfect BBQ flavors and immaculate balance of salt and fat in this dish.

Finally, we move on to the first dessert, titled “Spring Awakening,” which is a busy mix of rhubarb, raspberry, and rich buttermilk. A tiny square of edible silver in the top right is an over-the-top but charming touch. 8/10.

In a final gesture of largesse, the restaurant gives us the other dessert we could have selected from the menu, titled “Bau-stein" (“Bau-rock.”) With a satisfyingly crunchy outer shell and inner flavors of piña colada, sorbets of pineapple & coconut, and coco-yuzu. This is yet another extremely satisfying course that wraps up an extremely satisfying meal. 9/10.